Portland Mural Art

 

BotJoy, Gary Hirsch

Art can bring us joy; it can challenge us, or give us new perspectives. Art displayed in museums and galleries, or inside buildings and private homes, can only be seen by those who have the means or access to enter those buildings.

But some artists use the external walls of buildings as their canvas, creating public art that enhances the urban landscape and is available for all to see. Portland, Oregon is rich with murals in many styles, some meticulously executed and signed, others more casual and anonymous. In 2020, mural artists have also used their talents to beautify boarded-up storefronts throughout the city, a result of closures due to the pandemic and protest-related window breakage and vandalism. These artists are creating temporary beauty to replace profanity and destruction.

This post is a celebration of some of my favorite murals in the City of Roses.

BotJoy by Gary Hirsch

SE 12th and Stark

 “An army of hand-painted domino robots  that wander the earth looking for joy, bravery, love, and coffee.” The original Bots were painted on the back of dominos, but Hirsch’s larger-than-life Bots grace buildings from Portland, OR to Madrid. Gary encourages other artists, children and teachers to “steal” his idea and create their own Bots. He loves the fact that his idea has spread, encouraging others to embrace positivity through lovable Bots. “Bots allow me to find all sorts of ways to let go of my art so I can see what delightful and surprising things can emerge.”

As Covid-19 impacted everyday life, Hirsch wanted to use his Bots to make a difference.  He distributes them to children in hospitals, and is involved in Create More Fear Less, a non- profit that inspires young people to deal with anxiety as a source of imagination, empathy, wisdom and healing.  Hirsch also found a way to show appreciation to front line workers in Portland. "I offered donations of Gratitude Bots to anyone who wanted to thank a front line worker. So far, over 600 have been donated,” he said.

Buckman Community Mural, SE 12^th Avenue and Morrison St.

A masterpiece in concept and execution, the Buckman Community Mural demonstrates how wall art can beautify a less-than-gorgeous location: it’s on the side of a Plaid Pantry at a busy southeast intersection, half obscured by a bus stop shelter. 

This stunning 40- by 16-foot mural was created by local artist Joe Cotter in 2011. It was funded by a $21,550 grant from the city’s Bureau of Environmental Services to counter the impact of “Big Pipe” construction on the neighborhood. The Big Pipe is depicted in the mural, as are bridges and mountains, the Willamette River, houses and buildings of many eras (including some with solar panels), community gardens, people bicycling and gathering in outdoor spaces, and what appear to be edible plantings in the heart of the city. 

It’s said that Cotter spent weeks walking through the neighborhood block by block, photographing present day Buckman neighborhood. Interestingly, the mural also incorporates historical Buckman in sepia paint tones, transitioning to full color as it moves outward in time and space. Specific landmarks that can be spotted include Lone Fir Cemetery (one of the oldest in Portland), Dr. Hawthorne’s Insane Asylum (now adjacent to a stellar food cart pod), the chimney from the former Washington High School, the hippo from Hippo Hardware, and many more fascinating details that are best observed from the north side of Morrison Street. 

Incidentally, Cotter’s murals are exceptional, numerous and located throughout Oregon. For more information, check out this website: http://www.josephcotter.com/murals.html

Keep on the Sunnyside, SE 30th south of Belmont Street

In multiple panels marching up SE 30th on the east side of Aikido-Two Rivers Aikikai, this mural depicts vignettes of Sunnyside neighborhood in southeast Portland: lush gardens, a Little Free Library, a friendly cat, free goods on the side of the road (AKA Portland recycling), the old fire station, Victorian houses, bicyclists beside the now defunct streetcar that once ran through the neighborhood, and an assortment of residents and their pets. The design is by MADDO, the mural was organized by PSAA (Portland Street Art Alliance) and sponsored by SE Uplift. It was created in 2017.

Portland Street Art Alliance

Portland Street Art Alliance is turning lemons into lemonade by promoting the employment of laid-off artists to beautify boarded-up storefronts around Portland. In downtown Portland, BIPOC street artists have created murals on panels surrounding the World Trade Center building, with support from NeighborsWest Northwest and wall space provided by Portland General Electric.

For the artists, it’s a chance to do something positive and uplifting for the community. At the same time, they are helping business owners, who have taken a tremendous blow from both COVID19 and civic unrest in the city, resulting in widespread vandalism. The vibrant artwork helps show the public that these businesses are staying optimistic for a healthy future. For Portland residents, these artists are providing beauty in unexpected places. 

This video shows some Portland mural artists at work:

Miscellaneous Murals

In southeast Portland, colorful and provocative murals can be found framing parking lots and on the sides of unidentified buildings and residences. Here are a few favorites, all within walking distance of each other:

Parking lot, SE 11th and Stark

Parking lot, SE 11th and Stark

Together we Shine, SE 10th and Washington

SE 19th and Belmont

Side of someone's garage, SE Belmont

SE 19th and Belmont

This is just a small sample of the visual feast that can be enjoyed throughout the city.  Although there are guides and maps available for those who are serious about mural gazing, wandering the streets of Portland can be a fun way to discover and enjoy hidden gems and the immense creativity of local artists.

Do you have a favorite Portland mural?

Portland Winter Light Festival

The author at Mihaly's Gate

The Portland Winter Light Festival reminds me why I love Portland.

For 3 nights in early February, artists’ creations from petite to enormous adorn the pedestrian paths on both sides of the Willamette River with mesmerizing colored lights and fire, with displays that respond to movement or sound, with undulating shapes and colors projected on the sides of bridges and buildings.  Volunteers outfitted in outlandish illuminated capes and hats and glow-fingered gloves pull crazy contraptions through the crowd, soliciting donations to keep this annual event free. 

Twinkle Trees

Families are out en masse, with kids and dogs who dance and pose among the inventive light-inspired installations, utterly undeterred by the light drizzle.  We need this sparkle in February, a month traditionally known for ice storms and winter white skies. Thursday evening wasn’t too cold, and the wind was light, and the mood was festive on the east side of the river.

One of my favorite sights was the Twinkle Trees in a succession of colors, first shocking pink, then sun yellow, neon blue, gaudy green.  Each tree monochromatic and covered with flowers or gingko leaves and framing the view of the west bank of the river, where other neon colored objects beckoned.

Crystal Evolution

As we meandered south past OMSI we encountered Crystal Evolution, a color-changing work in metal with lights and fire.  In the words of artist Kay Sims, “crystals grow and tentacles reach out from an alien seed pod filled with flame.”  That didn't deter people from gathering around it to warm their hands and bodies.

An installation called Waking Revery features the reflection and

Waking Revery

refraction of light within a multi-layered octahedron.  Creator TVA Architects describes it as a portal between consciousness and sleep, where “familiar sights morph into abstract expressions.  Concrete objects are dematerialized, while the vivid colors of dreams come to life.”

Throughout the city, there are more than 100 illuminated art installations, dozens of live events, and numerous kinetic fire sculptures during the festival.  

Perhaps that gives you a taste of the whimsy and magic of this nocturnal event.  It’s Portland eclectic, Portland gathering and glittering, Portland aglow.  It's the Portland I love.

The Fracture Chronicles

Life lessons can be painful.

I was "Groovin' on a Sunday Afternoon", washing my car in the sun, when I stepped on a coil of hose, throwing me backwards.  I stopped the fall with my right hand, fracturing a bone in my wrist.  In five seconds, I broke the first bone of my 64 years.  Twelve days later, on the summer solstice, I had surgery to fix the damage.

Be mindful.  That is the first lesson of this experience.   Don't let the hose be a disorganized mess just waiting to trip you.  This is a metaphor for any undertaking, small or grand: Pay attention.  Be present.  Don't be careless.

Now for the post surgery lessons:  Very little is essential.  What is important becomes crystal clear.
First, family.  My beautiful daughter is returning from 9 months in Europe late next week, and it will be fabulous to have her back in hugging range.

Emily in Toledo, Spain

Can I have her room as clean and welcoming as I intended?  Probably not. Will she know how much I love her, how much I've missed her? 
Claro que si!

What else really matters?  Great friends, with whom many summer adventures will continue to unfold.  Camping, dancing, blues festival, lovely dinners al fresco - my wrist won't interfere with any of that.  I can boogie to Silent Disco at Laurelhurst Park with my brother Steve.  I can weed and pick vegetables and flowers with my left hand.   I can type - slowly - with my working fingers, so I can write.  I can hang out with my wonderful son Alex, his girlfriend Emily, and Tater Tot, their adorable Corgi.  I can spend time in my yard with my partner, Tim.  I can absorb  the life lessons within this experience.

Wooden Shoe tulip festival, OR

 

  And it's summer! - blue skies, balmy temperatures and flowers, a feast of color, shape and scent to delight the senses.  From tulip festivals to my own garden, nature heals and nourishes me in  powerful ways, and it's lusciously opulent in this season.

My vegies

What's not important?

The list of projects that is always on my  desk. Whether the house is clean or the yard is tidy.  The things that I normally would do that are hard for me right now. 

I am grateful to have two hands and a healthy body that can heal.  I am grateful for all the things I can do.  I am learning.

Hiking in the Cinque Terre with Emily,
January 2019

What Makes Portland (Weirdly) Great

Whenever I find myself muttering about the ugly high rise construction, the homeless explosion, the trash and the traffic, I stop and reflect - Portland, OR,  is still a fabulous place to live.  This celebrated city is home to unique happenings and glorious locales that make it weirdly great.

This is my unofficial guide to great days in Portland.

Mt. Tabor Art Walk

On one weekend in May, when gardens are bursting with rhododendron and Iris and the golden chain trees fling their yellow branches over sidewalks, SE Portland artists open their homes and studios to the public.  These beautiful homes are nestled into the hilly streets around Mt. Tabor, a dormant volcano covered with woods and trails.  Anyone with the readily available map is welcome, a testament to the welcoming vibe that still permeates Portland.

In one home, the dining room was transformed by a display of Jo Brody's hand-carved silver jewelry oxidized and embellished with vintage glass, gems and silk ribbons.   A gemlike floral arrangement of yellow Ranunculus and Star of Bethlehem spoke of the season in sunshine colors, while soft jazz played in the background.  Downstairs and all through the yard, husband Mark's glass mosaic pagodas, birdbaths, wall fountains and garden creatures added a whimsical, functional or simply beautiful touch to the surroundings.

Other highlights of my tour this year: After walking through an immaculate garage with two kayaks hung neatly on the wall, I entered a display gallery of Tomek Szelagowski's incredible photographs printed on metal.  Depictions of Iceland, of Washington's Enchantment Lakes, a Hawaiian volcano spewing fire, a gecko on Italy's Amalfi Coast, a bicycle leaning against a wall in Vietnam - the intense clarity and color of these images is utterly mesmerizing.

On the lovely Western Seminary campus I found friend and former neighbor Adrienne Stacey, a potter who incorporates leaves, flowers and other natural elements into her pieces, which are often meant to embellish the garden.  After a long hug we exchanged news of our children amidst the wandering crowd.  Her work, as always, is evolving, incorporating new perspectives and techniques and purposes.  Excited customers left bearing carefully wrapped pots, bringing Adrienne's art to their own homes and gardens.

Photographer Larry Olson celebrates the natural world in enormous photographic images that transport you to places of unimaginable beauty.  His work covers all corners of the planet, but dwells particularly on the spectacular Pacific Northwest.  

  

Olson's creative flair is also evident in his own garden that invites exploration. On French doors leading out to the expansive backyard, a handwritten sign announced: "The garden is open." That spirit of hospitality, and the layering of natural beauty with human creativity, makes this one of my favorite events of the Portland year.

This year's Mt. Tabor Art Walk featured 22 sites where 41 artists displayed paintings, prints, ceramics, jewelry, photographs, mosaics, glass, mixed media, garden art and much more.  The event is held annually in May.

Post from Italy, Part 2: The Cinque Terre

Breakfast with a view, Vernazza

The five towns known as the Cinque Terre are linked by challenging hiking trails, an enticement for travels with my daughter, who loves nature as I do. Now, finally, we were arriving in Vernazza. High speed trains link Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, each painted in the pastel pinks and salmons, yellows and baby blues and pale greens decreed as the tints of this picturesque piece of Italy.  Sunlight shimmered on the Ligurian Sea, eliciting a collective gasp as the sight of sparkling water came into view of our train for the first time.  

The belvedere, Corniglia

Corniglia kitty

Our first "hike" was the 15-minute climb up rough stone stairs to our apartment high above the coastal town, with the sound of the waves always present.  From our private terrace, we could see the entire town of Vernazza like a watercolor painting of a dream.  Our first dinner was eaten just down the hill at La Torre, where a sign proclaims: 
"But not in many places you can try the experience of being in a postcard.  If you are in a hurry, you're not allowed here."

We watched a spectacular sunset over the sea while savoring the regional fare: pasta with pesto and stuffed mussels, paired with the local red wine and Prosecco. 
We were not in a hurry.

We loved Corniglia, on a hillside with its friendly maze of side streets; at the end of one, we found a belvedere “perched between the sea and sky” (Rick Steves), an apt description that didn’t convey the bliss of having it all to ourselves, except for the resident cat who befriended us.                                                                                                                          

Antipasto di Mare

We spent one sunny morning on the beach in Monterosso, which seems to get most of the morning sun in winter. We tried the local specialty, Antipasto di Mare: six small plates of the fresh local catch.  Our selection included smoked swordfish, sliced translucently thin; anchovies marinated two different ways; meaty, flavorful octopus; pickled mussels; and the local cod, cooked and served with olive oil, lemon and capers, all regional products.

Sunny Monterosso

Monterosso morning

Prone to landslides and erosion, I had heard that the Cinque Terre trails are sometimes closed to hikers, but I was disappointed to learn that all the main trails along the coastline were off limits during our visit.  Nevertheless, a tip from a shop owner in 

Hiking from Corniglia to Manarola

Corniglia sent us higher into the hills to a trail that was accessible, though by no means easy.  Sometimes marked with a red and white stripe, other times leading through someone's (fabulous) backyard, or threading a narrow path above someone working in the terraced grapevines, the trail led in and out of forests, offering astonishing views of the cliffs and the towns and the dazzling sea.

After three hours of strenuous climbing and descending and climbing again, we found ourselves confused: we were hiking to Manarola, but the trail forked and led in three different directions.  At that moment, with sunset approaching, a couple came hiking toward us, and we asked them the way to Manarola.  After trying to explain in Italian, they suddenly said they were going there, and we should follow.

Our stylish Italian guides

He was dressed for walking, but she! - Wearing shiny black boots with chunky heels, tights and a short skirt, a fashionable shawl draped diagonally across her shoulders, she was carrying a leather purse in one hand.  Her blonde hair was perfectly coiffed.  She seemed to have no trouble with the rocky, irregular trail.  

We followed them for another half hour.  Our new friends looked back regularly to make sure we were keeping up (we weren't), until we arrived at their destination - a cliffside osteria with the perfect sunset view, perched above the postcard town of Manarola.  The sun set flaming pink and orange on the watery horizon as we enjoyed the Italian version of hot wine in the twilight.

Manarola at twilight

This is how the locals roll on a Sunday evening in the Cinque Terre.  How lucky for us that they showed us the way.

Post From Italy, Part 1: Siena

If I could realistically escape modern life, I would do it in Siena.

Walking into the heart of Siena

The ancient stone walls of the old Tuscan city enclose narrow, picturesque streets that meander, seemingly randomly, inviting exploration.  The heart of the city is Il Campo, the public square, scene of the crazy horse race known as the Palio in summer.  On our winter visit, people had gathered to enjoy the January sun, the delightful trattorias serving tagliatelle with wild boar ragu and Caprese salad, and the Fonte Gaia (fountain of joy), where pigeons perched on carved figures, sipping from this 600-year-old place of refreshment.  

Yes, there are plenty of tourists and shops catering to them, but it feels SO much smaller and easier to navigate than the big cities of our previous stops.  And there are incredible sights to be seen:  after the 400+ step climb to the top of Torre del Mangia, the second highest bell tower in Italy, the geometric dome and towers of the Duomo to the west, and the tile roofs and Tuscan countryside in every other direction, more than made up for the harrowing climb.  The landscape has a rolling, symmetrical beauty, punctuated by stands of skinny, perpendicular Cypress trees.

View of Il Campo from Torre Mangia

Siena Duomo and Toscana

Siena's main sights can be enjoyed in a couple of days, on foot - what a treat!  We never felt rushed as we toured the simple, sweet synagogue and learned of the history of Jews in this part of the world.  We visited the Palazzo Publica (city hall), where the vibrant frescoes rival paintings in Europe's finest museums - and how on earth did they do those ceilings?  We enjoyed another expansive view from the Panorama dal Facciatone, the loggia atop the Museo del Opera.  

Fresco and ceiling in Palazzo Publico (old city hall): "Good Government"

Quietly boasting some jaw-dropping art, Siena's Duomo is a visual feast, with its elaborately decorated, soaring columns, more mind-blowing frescoes, and a basement-level crypt that evokes medieval ages and beliefs.  

Siena Duomo

Frescoes in Siena Duomo

The food of Siena celebrates pasta of all shapes and sizes, served with mushrooms, truffles, and long-cooked sauces.  How surprising to enjoy sweet tomatoes, basil and the most delightful mozzarella in January, while the sun bathed us and we people watched in Il Campo.  We sampled Salsicce con Fagioli (sausage and white beans) and the famous local soup, Ribollita (beans, veg and bread) at a hole-in-the-wall with a handwritten menu and communal tables full of locals.

Love Potion #9, Italian style

We drank Prosecco and Campari and local red wines, and on our last night lucked into front row seats for live music at a crowded trattoria.  The two-man band played jazz and pop while disco lights played around the room, and when they sang "Love Potion #9" in Italian, Emily and I couldn't stop laughing.

Osteria La Chiaccuera

Beyond what this fascinating town offers in present experience and fond memory (I was here when I was barely 20 years old, more than 40 years ago), the people were simply lovely.

Our Airbnb couldn't have been more warm or comforting.  Elena made us feel like family from the moment we arrived.  Breakfast was epic: cured meats, fresh cheeses, a loaf of bread to be sliced and toasted to our preference.   Croissants, cakes, jam and butter, coffee and tea and juice, yogurt and cereal.  A cat named Roby.  A warm hug and two kisses as Elena waited on the street with us for our taxi.

Waiting for our taxi with Elena

Bella Siena, arrivederci!