Post From Italy, Part 1: Siena

If I could realistically escape modern life, I would do it in Siena.

Walking into the heart of Siena

The ancient stone walls of the old Tuscan city enclose narrow, picturesque streets that meander, seemingly randomly, inviting exploration.  The heart of the city is Il Campo, the public square, scene of the crazy horse race known as the Palio in summer.  On our winter visit, people had gathered to enjoy the January sun, the delightful trattorias serving tagliatelle with wild boar ragu and Caprese salad, and the Fonte Gaia (fountain of joy), where pigeons perched on carved figures, sipping from this 600-year-old place of refreshment.  

Yes, there are plenty of tourists and shops catering to them, but it feels SO much smaller and easier to navigate than the big cities of our previous stops.  And there are incredible sights to be seen:  after the 400+ step climb to the top of Torre del Mangia, the second highest bell tower in Italy, the geometric dome and towers of the Duomo to the west, and the tile roofs and Tuscan countryside in every other direction, more than made up for the harrowing climb.  The landscape has a rolling, symmetrical beauty, punctuated by stands of skinny, perpendicular Cypress trees.

View of Il Campo from Torre Mangia

Siena Duomo and Toscana

Siena's main sights can be enjoyed in a couple of days, on foot - what a treat!  We never felt rushed as we toured the simple, sweet synagogue and learned of the history of Jews in this part of the world.  We visited the Palazzo Publica (city hall), where the vibrant frescoes rival paintings in Europe's finest museums - and how on earth did they do those ceilings?  We enjoyed another expansive view from the Panorama dal Facciatone, the loggia atop the Museo del Opera.  

Fresco and ceiling in Palazzo Publico (old city hall): "Good Government"

Quietly boasting some jaw-dropping art, Siena's Duomo is a visual feast, with its elaborately decorated, soaring columns, more mind-blowing frescoes, and a basement-level crypt that evokes medieval ages and beliefs.  

Siena Duomo

Frescoes in Siena Duomo

The food of Siena celebrates pasta of all shapes and sizes, served with mushrooms, truffles, and long-cooked sauces.  How surprising to enjoy sweet tomatoes, basil and the most delightful mozzarella in January, while the sun bathed us and we people watched in Il Campo.  We sampled Salsicce con Fagioli (sausage and white beans) and the famous local soup, Ribollita (beans, veg and bread) at a hole-in-the-wall with a handwritten menu and communal tables full of locals.

Love Potion #9, Italian style

We drank Prosecco and Campari and local red wines, and on our last night lucked into front row seats for live music at a crowded trattoria.  The two-man band played jazz and pop while disco lights played around the room, and when they sang "Love Potion #9" in Italian, Emily and I couldn't stop laughing.

Osteria La Chiaccuera

Beyond what this fascinating town offers in present experience and fond memory (I was here when I was barely 20 years old, more than 40 years ago), the people were simply lovely.

Our Airbnb couldn't have been more warm or comforting.  Elena made us feel like family from the moment we arrived.  Breakfast was epic: cured meats, fresh cheeses, a loaf of bread to be sliced and toasted to our preference.   Croissants, cakes, jam and butter, coffee and tea and juice, yogurt and cereal.  A cat named Roby.  A warm hug and two kisses as Elena waited on the street with us for our taxi.

Waiting for our taxi with Elena

Bella Siena, arrivederci!