Postcard from Paris

What can I say about Paris that hasn't been said by so many others?

Sacre Couer, Montmartre

Unimaginably ancient yet incredibly modern, it's a feast for the eyes: elaborate cathedrals festooned with lunging gargoyles and glittering with stained glass, shop windows sparkling with jewel-like desserts and provocative lingerie, enticing markets stocked with the freshest produce, baskets of oysters, fabulous cheeses, fish and shellfish.  On every corner, you can grab a cup of Vin Chaud, hot spiced wine, to keep you warm and willing to keep walking and ogling Paris.

Organic Market, Raspail

Purely by chance, our lovely apartment was located in Le Marais, the Jewish and gay quarter, and an ideal neighborhood to explore on foot.  We loved Rue de Rosiers, where delis alternate with falafel stands, and the food is both affordable and amazing.  One day we stopped at Sacha Finkelsztajn for a knish and Favorki, twists of fried dough sprinkled with powdered sugar.  On New Year's Eve, we opted for falafel and Israeli sandwiches stuffed to bursting with velvety grilled eggplant, Merguez sausage and fresh vegetables.  Our appetizer was fresh oysters, purchased in front of the neighborhood grocery store and shucked to order, served with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.  Exquisite!

Museum overload is a definite danger.  There are literally dozens (hundreds?) of world class museums both large and small, for every taste, and you can go crazy trying to fit them all in.  The D'Orsay, housed in an old train station, should not be missed - the glass ceiling allows natural light to bathe the old masters, Renoir and Picasso, Monet and Cezanne, Rodin, Gaugin, Pisarro and Degas.  The Picasso Museum contains more of his works than any other museum in the world, including works you've probably never seen - and with photographs of the artist and the creative displays, you might almost believe that Pablo is right there with you.

Picasso and sculptures

Other highlights: jazz at Le Caveau de la Huchette, a club located in a cave, where couples danced swing to a live band in a crowded, lively space (thank you, Julie and Scott).  Shakespeare and Co., an astonishing bookstore where books are stacked up to the ceiling, and the intimate rooms invite you to explore and linger ... forever.
Rue Cler, where fromageries and cafes and flower stands assault your senses with delight, and where I sipped a hot chocolate that tasted like a liquid truffle (thank you, Chef Tse).

New Year's on the Champs Elysee

New Year's Eve on the Champs Elysee, lined with trees festooned with sparkling red lights and the largest crowd I've ever seen.  On the boulevard, the jostling crowd flowed towards the Arc de Triomphe, where a new age light show colored the iconic monument.  Despite the presence of chanting "yellow vests" and a plethora of police, the party was punctuated by a fantastic fireworks display - and we survived the mass exodus of thousands, escaping to a bar for overpriced wine, but exhilarated and ready to welcome in 2019.

What can I say about Paris that hasn't been said before?
Despite what everyone says, the French were more than friendly and helpful.   And that was the nicest surprise of all.